How To Splice Fiber Optic Cable - Mechanical Splice

Instructions for splicing fiber optic cable with the AFL CS004162 mechanical splice kit. Watch quick overview video at bottom of post.

1.0 GENERAL
1.01 These instructions describe the operation of the SpliceConnect™ Universal Mechanical Splicing Tool. Please be sure to read these instructions carefully before proceeding.

WARNING: Always wear eye protection when handling optical fibers. Dispose of any cut or cleaved ends properly. Do not touch the wedge with bare hands.

1.02 The SpliceConnect™ CS004162 Universal Mechanical Splicing Tool Kit Contains:
• Mechanical Splicing Tool
• Instruction Manual
• Fiber Holder (900µm)
• Fiber Holder (250µm)
• Instructions Video (CD)
• Carrying Case

1.03 Tools and materials required:
• CT-30A Universal Cleaver (recommended)
• Fiber Prep Fluid
• Marking Pen
• Fiber Stripper
• Lint-free Cloth Wipes

2.0 INSTALLATION
2.01 Identify components of the kit. (see Figure 1)

2.02 Securely set the mechanical splice into the tool with the “F” logo upside down and on the left side. (see Figure 2)

2.03 Push the Red lever fully to engage the wedge into the splice. (see Figure 3)

2.04 Avoid damage to the fibers by making sure the fiber holder grooves and stripper are free of dust. (see Figure 4)

2.05 For 250µm: Mark 35mm from the end of the fiber. Strip the fiber to the mark. Clean the bare fiber. (see Figure 5)

For 900µm: Mark 35mm from the end of the fiber. Strip the fiber to the mark by removing 7mm at one time. Clean the bare fiber. (see Figure 5)

2.06 For 250µm: Place end of the fiber coating at the 10mm mark on the cleaver and cleave the bare fiber. The result is 10mm of bare fiber remaining after cleave. (see Figure 6)

For 900µm: Place end of the fiber coating at the 15mm mark on the cleaver and cleave the bare fiber. The result is 15mm of bare fiber remaining after cleave. (see Figure 6)

2.07 For 250µm: Set the fiber onto the holder with a protrusion of 25mm (10mm of bare fiber and 15mm of buffer coating). Gripping the front portion of the holder, slide the clamp downwards to lock the fiber. (see Figure 7)

For 900µm: Set the fiber onto the holder with a protrusion of 25mm (15mm of bare fiber and 10mm of buffer coating). (see Figure 7)

2.08 Set the fiber holder in the tool in line with the arrows on the rail. The fiber end should coincide with the tip of the fiber guide. (see Figures 8 and 9)

2.09 Slide the fiber holder forward until it is secured by the fiber holder lock. (see Figures 10 and 11)

2.10 Repeat steps 2.05 through 2.09 for the opposite fiber.

2.11 Insert opposite side of holder and fiber should bend on the side of the inserted holder. (see Figures 12 and 13)

(Except for 250µm to 900µm, the fiber on the opposite side of the inserted fiber holder should bend. (see Figure 14)

2.12 Press down the fiber bend and the opposite side should form a bend. (see Figures 15 and 16)

2.13 Balance the fiber bends on both sides. If the fiber bends cannot be balanced, restart the process with a new mechanical splice. (see Figures 17 and 18)

2.14 When the fiber bends on both sides are balanced, push the yellow lever to disengage the wedge. Fiber splice is completed. (see Figure 19)

2.15 For 250µm: Release the fibers from the fiber holder by sliding the clamps towards the splice side. Make sure the fiber does not get caught by any part of the splice tool. Remove the splice gently. (see Figures 20 and 21)

For 900µm: Release the fibers from fiber holders by opening the fiber holder covers. Make sure the fiber does not get caught by any part of the splice tool. Remove the splice gently. (see Figures 22 and 23)

2.16 Slide the fiber holder backwards and remove it from the lock. Do not keep the fiber holders locked in the tool. (see Figures 24 and 25)

Watch the mechanical splice video overview

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How Low Voltage Cable is Made - Cat5e, Cat6, Cat3 and OSP

In this article, I'll explain step by step how low voltage Premise and Outside Plant (OSP) cable is made. This includes Cat3 telephone cable, Cat5e, Cat6, Armored, Gel-filled and more. Enjoy


Copper Rod Breakdown
The first step in low voltage cable production is copper rod breakdown. Copper is sent to the factory in 5,000lb coils. These copper coils are continuously drawn through diamond dies that drastically reduce the diameter of the copper to 10 or 12 gauge. Lubrication is used during this process to reduce the amount of friction and heat on the copper cable. Once completed, the copper is stacked in vertical coils, called Stem Packs. These stem packs are then transferred to another drawling operation that further reduces the gauge of the copper. During this stage, the copper is also charged with an electrical current. This anneals the copper, which is a softening process. Once annealed and cooled off, the copper runs through a laser measurement system, to verify it is within manufacturing specifications.

Copper Insulation Process
The copper insulation process is continually monitored and controlled up to +/- .0001". Once the copper is insulated, it runs through a water cooling trough, allowing the wire jacket to properly harden.

Copper Twisting
Twisting helps reduce crosstalk between the individual pairs of wire. Some Cat6 premise cables include a center spline, or wire separator, to further reduce crosstalk and increase performance. Copper twisting is accomplished by running each individual wire through multiple faceplates. This helps control pair position. Once twisted, we have what's called a Cable Unit.

Jacketing
The cable unit then goes through the jacketing process. This step varies, depending on what type of cable your manufacturing. OSP cable typically uses a black polyethylene or UV rated Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). For Cat3, Cat5e and Cat6 Premise cable, varying grades of PVC are used, depending on flame safety rating requirements. This steps starts off with molten plastic being extruded at high pressure and formed around the moving cable core. Shielding, ripcords, armoring and water blocking compound may also be applied at this step. Cables that require dual shielding or double armor will need to repeat this process. Once completed, the cable passed through a long cooling bath, then through a laser micrometer to verify the final diameter.

Printing
Printing is done just before the cable is put in it's final packaging. For OSP cable, a hot foil printing process is used, that leaves an indented print in the cable jacket. For Premise cable, a high speed ink jet printer is used. Some cable manufacturers print footage marking from 1000-0ft, making it very easy to determine how much cable you have left in the box, or measuring out cable runs. Other manufacturers use a 6 digit footage mark, making the process a little harder.

Coiling
The completed cable is then wound onto a reel or coil. the coiling process requires very precise tension controls to insure the cable won't tangle when being pulled out of the box.

Final Testing
Once the cable is printed and coiled, it goes through one last set of tests. The manufacturer will test it against a large set of mechanical and electrical performance specifications. Once tested, the cable is ready for shipment.

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How To Terminate Fiber Optic Cable Using AFL Fast Connectors

This is an introduction to the most commonly installed Fiber Optic Cable – 62.5 Multimode fiber, using AFL Fast SC or LC connectors. This new style 2009 Fast connector has cut the cost of labor and time in the field up to 90% compared to termination styles from 10 years ago.

Items Needed:
AFL Fast Connectors
Fiber Stripper
Fiber Cleaver
Fiber Wipes
Kevlar Scissors

Warning: Always wear protective eyewear when terminating optical fibers. Dispose of cut or cleaved ends properly.

Let’s Get Started:
First, you’ll want to cut the outside jacket off the fiber optic cable, maybe about 18 inches from the end. Electrician snips will be fine with most types of fiber optic cable. You may or may not need to cut the kevlar depending on what style fiber connector your using. Since were using AFL Fast connectors, we’ll cut the kevlar down.

If your using a 250μm buffered fiber, you’ll then slid the boot over the fiber strand, small end first.

Then strip the buffer coating off the individual strands with a fiber optic stripping tool. Be sure to leave more fiber than the finished cleave length. It is recommended that the stripped fiber be cleaned with an alcohol wipe before cleaving to remove any dust or debris.

Check the fiber for integrity by bending the stripped end of the fiber slightly. This insures that you have not damaged it during the stripping step.

Now we need to cut the fiber to length using a cleaver. A cleaver is a specially designed tool that makes a controlled break in the glass. It also cuts it to the exact length you need. The cleave length will vary depending on what size coating of buffer your using. Since were using a 250μmwe need to cleave the connector at 10mm (the cleave length is 10.5mm for ST connectors).

Once we have the fiber cleaved, we need to carefully insert the fiber into the connector. Press the wedge into the connector to open it.

Once it is inside, apply slight force on the fiber into the connector. This will insure the prepared fiber is against the internal pre polished fiber inside the connector.



Maintaining slight force on the fiber, release the wedge unit by squeezing it from the side until the wedge pulls out of the connector body. Slide the locking piece from the bottom of the wedge unit and remove the wedge from the connector assembly. Slide the boot up and engage it over the rear of the connector body. Apply the connector housing onto the assembly from the front.

Your DONE!

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How To Punch Down Cat5e/Cat6 Keystone Jacks

How to punch down a Cat5e/Cat6 keystone jack, step-by-step instructions. I took a bunch of pictures along the way to better explain the process, and to let you see just what it should look like. If you want to see the process of punching down a Cat5e or Cat6 jack on video, scroll to the bottom of this post. To get started, let's take a look at what tools you will need:

Electricians Scissors (regular household scissors will work also)

Wire Stripper (you can use electricians scissors if you don't have any wire strippers)

Punch Down Tool with 110 Blade

 

Punch Down Palm Tool (optional)

Cat5e/Cat6 Keystone Jacks

 Bulk Cat5e/Cat6 Ethernet Cable

 

Now that we have all the tools, let's punch down some keystone jacks.

First, strip off at least 1 inch of jacket on your Cat5e/Cat6 cable. Make sure not to cut into the wires. If you do, you'll need to start over. This picture shows what the two cables look like side by side. The Cat6 cable is larger (bottom) due to the separator between the pairs.

Cut off the ripcord

If you using Cat6 cable, it should have a separator. Cut that off as well. Simply pull the 4 pairs of wire back and cut it off

Now were ready to lace up the wires on the keystone jack. This style of jack is very user friendly and great for beginners or professional installers. You can see 110s are in a single row and that they are pointed, making it easier to lace the wires down

Let's go ahead and wire these keystone jacks following the 568b Wiring Diagram

You can see the keystone jack has the color code for 568A and 568B on the jack. They are very similar, but 568B is most commonly used nowadays.

 

Once all the wires are laid down, your keystone jack should look like this. Notice how I left the pairs of wire twisted. I was able to do this because of the pointed ridges on the jack, making it much easier to set the wires in. Many other styles of jacks out there have a flat surface, requiring you to untwist all 4 pairs of wire down to the jacket. Also notice how the jacket of the cable is right up against the keystone jack. You don't want any more than 1/2" of the wires exposed.

Once you have the wires laced in correctly, set your keystone jack in a jack palm tool. If you don't have one of these available, you can punch the jack down on the ground or a desk, but I suggest putting a piece of cardboard down to prevent the jack from slipping out when you punch them down. I would strongly suggest AGAINST using your hand to punch down jacks without the use of this tool. The jack can slip out and the tool will cut right through your hand. Not a pretty site

Now, take your punch tool and find the side that says "CUT". You want to make sure the tool faces the correct way, or you'll cut the wrong side of the wires off. This is how your tool should look when punching down the jack. Notice the pointy tip on the left side of the 110s

 A close up view of the 110 blade shows this better

Once the punch down tool is positioned correctly, push down firmly until you feel it pop. You should see the wire cut off. If it doesn't, you may need to do it once more. Here you can see I terminated the brown pair

Repeat with the other 3 pairs of wires and you have a completed keystone jack. It will look like this. Note how the jacket is very close to the jack. You want to make sure you keep it as close as possible.

Here is a picture or the WRONG way. The cable jacket is stripped too far back, exposing more than 1/2" of the wires

Lastly, press the clear dust cover on your jack and your DONE

Now let's watch it on video

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